Do you want to change hair color? Here are 10 things to know
A Woman who cuts her hair is about to change her life said the legendary Madame Coco Chanel, but also changing the color of her hair is a sign of the desire for renewal! Everything is about understanding which color can enhance us, and avoiding instead a color that penalizes us. Follow this guide to know all about the color change, to make the right choice for you.
Over 60% of Italian women intervene on their natural hair color using dyes and lightning, and the hair styling sector is a market that in Italy is worth 570 million Euro, with a turnover of 7.5 million Euro. The numbers are clear: we women (but also many men now!) We seek solutions to improve our image, and hair, is a fundamental “accessory”, which we wear every day and that contributes substantially to the perception of the face.
We asked a color expert, the hair stylist Angelo Taverniti, the most important things to keep in mind when wanting to change hair color, and with his 30 years of experience, helped us to draw up the color change guide: from today for us the hair color has no more secrets!
1. Types of colors and maintenance
The 4 main categories of hair dyeing products are natural ones, based on dyeing grounds (like henna ); the water-based stains; the colors with and without ammonia.
If your goal is to cover the first white hair and you have less than 40% you could opt for the natural solution, which, among other things, has an average duration of a month and a half (up to two months) and is the least invasive color.
The watercolors instead cover a 60% of white hair and require maintenance every month; finally, the colors with and without ammonia, require a mandatory maintenance every 25 days (up to a maximum of one month) because beyond this period one begins to see the “line” effect of regrowth.
The less invasive colors are those based on dyeing and semi-permanent lands, but if you have a lot of white hair to cover, it may not be the right solution for you.
2. The color of hair, based on the complexion
Choosing the right hair color is not easy at all! Never rely only on trendy colors, because the right choice stems from an analysis of the type of complexion and the color of the eyes.
For example, if you have an olive skin with dark eyes as well as supporting the intense browns and black, you can also wear a blond, but it is a cool blond, platinum. If instead, you have a very light complexion with clear eyes, even if you might think that blond is the color that is better, on the contrary, it could make you “dull” and then it is better to opt for a more intense or more coppery color.
This is why it is important to use a professional with a lot of experience on color, updated on new generation techniques and products, who will be able to make an assessment both on the image level and on the hair type, to propose the solution better to not damage it. Dyed yes, but the hair must still remain healthy!
3. Color and hairstyle: the right combination
The right color can radically change, for the better, the perception of a cut, and vice versa! In general, if you wear a full and even cut (for example, an even helmet with full fringe to Valentina di Crepax), an intense color is perfect, which gives even more “body” to the cut.
If you wear a scaled cut, you should lighten some areas to emphasize the scaling and get a nice movement. It is not necessary to exaggerate with the lightning, just a tone less than your natural color.
If finally harbors an asymmetric cut the short part flow goes dark, while the long part must be brought cloudy with a shatush or a balayage to give movement.
4. Balayage, shatush, shadows: the 3 most used lightening techniques
What is the difference between these 3 techniques? Balayage and shatush have the same goal: to get the bleaching effect natural, as if they had sprung from the sun to the sea, to give brightness and movement to the hair. The effect is not that of the classic sunstroke, which forms the “lines”, but is more nuanced and less clear.
The main difference lies in the technique of execution. It will be the hairdresser to propose the most suitable technique based on the result to be obtained and the type of hair and cut, but if you already have an idea of how you would like it is useful to go to the hairdresser with some reference image because the advice of the hairdresser is vital, but it is equally important that you like it and feel comfortable with a new color!
While balayage and shatush recreate the bleaching effect alone, the technique of the skin is that which concentrates the lightning on the tips, with a portion clearly clearer than the rest of the hair. It can be interesting but it requires a perfect styling always, and therefore a weekly haircut, vice versa you could be a bit “shabby”.
When you want to lighten your hair always informed about the products that are used: the products to be lightened contain bleaches that are aggressive for the hair, so it is important that they are of the latest generation. In recent years, in fact, protective agents are used which are inserted into the bleaches which protect the hair fiber.
5. Particular colors, the most difficult to obtain
If you are thinking of becoming platinum blonde, or silver gray, or a pop color like pink or purple, but you are not already a basic blonde, start to arm yourself with holy patience! Starting from a medium color, like the brown, it takes about 5-6 months to get to that beautiful and very clear glacial shade that you have in mind.
If you even start from an even darker base, like dark brown or black, to not completely destroy the hair fiber, in addition to putting more than half a year to get the expected result, you should also consider cutting your hair short.
6. Dyed hair: how often to cut them to keep them healthy
You can find yourself in two situations: the first is having a cut that, to remain perfect, requires the intervention of the hairdresser every month and a half, such as a shortcut, and then you already know that over the month may appear subdued. The second is to have a medium or long scaled cut and then it is not necessary to cut them just every month, but it is advisable, to have them healthy and cared for, to check them every 3 months.
7. Aging or rejuvenating: the relativity of hair color
The color rendition of the hair is very subjective and depends on the person’s complexion, the cut that leads, the style and age. The same red copper on a woman can rejuvenate and illuminate it, on another it can have the opposite effect. Generic information like “the blond illuminates” is relative, and not absolute!
Having said this we must be more careful to choose the right color from the age of 50 and up. A full black, for example, cast shadows on the face and can harden the features accentuating even wrinkles, as a platinum blond can be a choice that rejuvenates, but only if combined with a gritty cut, basically short.
Apart from the clear colors, such as platinum and black, which require attention to harmonize with the cut, when you want to change color, the advice is to try not to completely distort your natural root and work with color on the lengths. Moreover, mother nature is not wrong, harmonizes the color of hair to your complexion, and this is the most efficient combination ever!
8. Switch to white
In addition to being a trend of the moment, it is also a nice comfort not to be tied to the color and show off a nice silvery top. If you have 80% of white hair and you like the idea, you could opt to become “total white”!
If you are dark and white hair you have, but not many, you have to consider switching from intermediate colors and cut the medium-short hair, not to stress them too much. The timing to become white starting from a medium-dark color ranges from 6-7 months upwards.
Further advice: start the process in spring-summer because the sun helps in the process of lightning. Once white, or salt and pepper, or silver, pay attention to something very important: even these colors should be “improved” because they tend to turn yellow, especially if you are a smoker! Once every 20 days, you could make a very light direct color that serves to illuminate the silver reflections and keep the anti-aesthetic yellow reflections at bay.
9. Red hair, what a passion!
If we rely on what the fiery Lucille Ball, legendary actress of the 50s, said, ” At least once in a lifetime every man has the right to lose his head for a breathtaking redhead! “, We would like to be all seductive red, to please our men more! But if you have dared a full red that you do not like now and you want to go back to how you were before, then you have to realize that it takes about 2 – 3 months to completely eliminate it. The pickling method, the one that eliminates red in one sitting, is too aggressive. It is always recommended a method that fades the red slowly, on pain of having to wait a few months.
10. How to keep the color at home
Given that, as we have now understood, color is always good to do it by a professional, then it must be kept full-bodied and polished until the next session. For this reason, if you dye your hair regularly, and even more so if you lighten it, it is almost mandatory to adopt a hair-feeding strategy with products such as masks and restructuring oils. If you want to wear an intense color, in the mask you use after shampooing, your hairdresser can insert a few drops of your color to keep it alive.